A Typical Day in Nairobi

            Most people are awake and gone by 6:30 or 7:00 in the morning in order to arrive on time for work between 8:00 and 8:30. There is not much sunlight here so as soon as it shines people are on the move and then return home before it sets (7:00).

Breakfast is a quick and simple meal consisting of warm tea (mainly milk) and cold bread with margarine or fruit marmalade. I am a girl who really enjoys eggs and toast, a bagel or cereal for breakfast so having such bland flavors to wake up to is less than stellar. I quickly learned how important that warm cup and 2 pieces of bread are for my morning, though and combine the margarine and marmalade to increase my caloric intake.

            My family uses public transportation or our god-given legs but so many people have their own cars and drive themselves to work which causes so much congestion and increases travel time for everyone on their way to work or school.  Traffic is extreme during rush hours since there are limited road rules. Every driver thinks they have the right to do anything to get where they are going as fast as they can while ignoring the other cars, matatus and busses on the road.

Also there is so much road construction going on in my side of the city that jams are larger and more confusing. The road construction has not been handled in a timely manner, so I have been told. Roads were torn up in March and left in piles of rocks until this past week when the rain softened the land and made it easier to work. (I am starting to learn about “African Time” – more on that later I am sure)

            Once time has passed at the office, work or school house, tea and coffee is served at 10:00am for a break. Some take their break together and stop work completely and others use it as motivation for their current projects as they return to their desks. I must make mention of the coffee here in Kenya. I am sure many of you have sampled an African blend or maybe even the Kenyan beans. Well, here coffee is in the instant form and unless you visit a restaurant with an American menu it is rare to see real coffee. I think the reason for the history of tea time is of British influence. I miss my strong black cups of coffee in the morning but am adjusting to the lack of caffeine. I rely on an ice cold shower and 30 minute walk to work for my morning pick-me-up. J

            Lunch break is from 1:00-2:00. Lunch is the largest meal of the day since breakfast is light and dinner is eaten late and lacks volume. Everyone eats out at the local African cafes which range from large outdoor restaurants seated in between big business buildings to roadside “hole-in-the-wall” stands. Either way, the food is local, hot, fast and fresh.

In the states, I choose not to eat meat. My main reasons for this are to save my body from the antibiotic infested, confined and abused animal product mass production farms sell to fulfill our country’s high demand and full-fledged addiction to meat. (Sorry, I went off) Here meat is bought from local farmers who do not have the means to exploit the food chain, environment or economic market.

My host family knows that I choose not to eat meat in the states but it would be very unkind for me to refuse their home cooked meals and I also do not have the budget to eat out more than I have to.  The beef my family has cooked for me was very grisly and I did not enjoy it. Yesterday, I ate chicken liver with rice and papaya chili sauce and it was SO GOOD! I always cringed watching my dad eat the turkey gizzards at Thanksgiving but now I understand the tender delicacy of those organs. The produce here is fresh so there are many menu options yet to be explored. I will blog about them as I consume each day.

I just got back from lunch with two of my Ethiopian coworkers, Hadija and Zainaab. She ordered me beans and maize for lunch which were cooked together and served with sumawiki. Sumawiki is cooked greens, usually spinach, which is served with almost every meal. It is an acquired taste but today’s helping was especially good. Two plates cost 100 KES which is the equivalent to $1.25 USD. The two cokes (in plastic bottles which cost more than glass bottles) cost the same 100 KES. Craziness.

{ Zainaab has taken me under her wing and befriended me which I am so thankful for. She is a great help as I am trying to orient myself into the office and she loves to teach me Swahili phrases (just so she can giggle at my accent and efforts, I think). She ordered and treated for me as the large restaurant was busy with workers on break and the menu as well as the staff grounded in Swahili. }

After lunch, tea is served again at four. I rarely grab a drink at this point in the day because I am so full from the large serving of lunch. I wish there were more Spaniards so we could adhere to the siesta culture. Locals finish their meals easily but I have troubles stomaching the loads of carbohydrates and awkward eating schedules. I feel very bad throwing food away here because the garbage system is not like the states and the blatant poverty is a daily reminder to be thankful for the food on my plate.

My coworkers promptly leave the building at five o’clock as I observed on Monday. It was my first day in the office and I stayed behind to finish my Skype conversations and unknowingly became locked INSIDE the building and broke the keypad to unlock the doors. Luckily, I had Zainaab’s phone number and she assisted me in making the keypad work. It was definitely a memorable first day at my internship.

The sun sets by 7:00 here and there is not much to do after dark. Also, it is not safe to be out after dark unless you are with other or in a building (ie bar). Most people go home to watch the news in Swahili at 7:00, make dinner by 8:00, watch the news in English at 9:00 and then to bed by 10:00. Evenings are simple and quiet which I have really come to enjoy this past week. My journal is full of thoughts and my blog is full of stories.

Speaking of my blog, I realize these are lengthy posts but everything is so new and I am able to describe it with fresh, foreign eyes. Soon, life here will become normal and my posts will be less frequent so enjoy it while it lasts, ya’ll.

Kenya National Commission on Human Rights Details

Here are some details of my place of work. I am housed in the reforms and accountability department and will start my work under a man named Samson who is said to be funny, enjoyable and really drowning in all of his projects. He returns on Monday and I look forward to relieving him of some duties. I have also learned that my department travels often. It sounds like I will be getting a tour of Kenya by means of the National Commission (and hopefully their budget!!!).

Kenya National Commission on Human Rights

• Independent National Human Rights Institution established by the Government
• Mandated to act as a watchdog over the Government in the area of human rights
• Plays a key role in building a human rights culture in Kenya

Vision: “A nationally and globally respected Public Institution providing leadership

in Human Rights.”

Mission: To enhance the protection and promotion of human rights in Kenya through

strategic programming and partnerships.

Goal: To increase respect for and greater enjoyment of fundamental human rights in

Kenya.

Key Result Areas of the National Commission:

·        Reduced systemic human rights violations

·        Increased application of human rights principles and standards in implementation of Agenda 4 of the National Accord

·        Increased knowledge and practice of human rights principles and standards in public and private spheres

·        Organizational growth and development

Departments of the National Commission:

·        Complaints and Investigations

·        Redress

·        Research and Compliance

·        Reforms and Accountability

·        Public Education and Training

·        Regional Outreach and Partnership Building

·        Economic and Social Cultural Rights

·        Public Affairs and Communication

·        Human Resource and Administration

·        Procurement

·        Finance

·        Efficiency Monitoring

Functions of the National Commission:

·        To investigate the violation of any human rights

·        To visit prisons/places of detention/related facilities to asses and inspect conditions

·        To inform and educate the public on human rights in order to enhance their respect

·        To recommend to Parliament effective measures that promote human rights

·        To formulate, implement and oversee civic responsibility and citizen’s rights and obligations awareness programs

·        To act as the Chief Government agent in ensuring the Government’s compliance with its obligations under international treaties and conventions of human rights

·        To encourage the efforts of and cooperate with other institutions working in the field of human rights for the purposes of promoting and protecting human rights

My first few days...

Friday October 22, 2010.

Today was a day of firsts:

CLICK HERE TO SEE A VIDEO OF ME AFTER MY FIRST MORNING IN NAIROBI

First Matatu Ride:

I have heard of these large taxi busses before but seeing one and experiencing the ride first hand surely was a learning experience. Patrick and Simon picked me up at my house on Ndemi Road and we walked the five minutes to Ardwins Kohdek (a main road that runs parallel with Ngong Road – East to West through the city). There we waited on the left side of the street for a matatu.

When a matatu arrives, there is a certain way of dealing with the conductors who hang out the side of the car while it is moving and motion for waiting civilians to choose their ride. You must not reach for your money right away. Simply, find a seat and wait to be tapped on the shoulder by the conductor. When asked for payment, one must always assume it is 10Ksh (20Ksh=$0.25) unless it is rush hour in which the price goes up to 20Ksh. Then, wait to be tapped or motioned for money a second time and give the correct change or you will most likely not get the proper change back.

The matatus do not yield for other cars, pedestrians or the brave three that choose to ride bikes. It is a crazy ride; bumps, swerves, potholes, manholes, stop and go traffic and other matatus. As we came up to one stop, two men walked in to sit down and immediately exited without sitting. As we pulled away, a brave twenty-something woman called out the conductor for letting pickpockets into his car. She went on to argue with him that he knew the crew and he should not be mistreating his customers in such a way as to knowingly let them trick freely. There was a five person conversation about it in a language that was half English and half Swahili-I only was able to understand some parts. When we departed, Simon and Patrick filled me in on the common pickpocket tricks and ways to avoid them.

It was my first real experience in the Nairobi I have heard so much about (dubbed the nickname Nai-robbery, by some). I hope I am always alert enough to keep my bag on my lap and pulled close to my body. It would be a shame to have something swiped.

First Rain:

            The day of adventure was cut off by very large raindrops that fell for a consecutive six hours (4-10pm). I was downtown with Patrick as the clouds rolled in and we hopped up to a bar for a fresh squeezed juice in attempt to wait out the rain. Taking a matatu or bus from my neighborhood to downtown normally takes 10-15 minutes but traffic was clogged up on the way into town which made Patrick very nervous about the trek home. People say Kenyan’s have a bad habits of closing up their offices and shops when rain falls and rushing to get back to their home or their favorite after work watering hole. We sat on the bus for two and one half hours taking detour after detour.

Luckily, there was a very great radio station playing to keep us all entertained. They played a clip called “busted” in which the radio DJ assists a speculative spouse to uncover the truth about suspected infidelity. Boy oh boy was it painful to hear the DJ pretend to be the HIV+ wife of the boss, whom the wife was cheating with. The cheater admitted to not using protection, indirectly admitting to the affair. The DJ, still in character, put her “doctor” on the phone to discuss her health. Unfortunately, the husband was so upset he could not stay in character and called out his wife in front of millions of listeners. Everyone was stuck in traffic and this radio station is one of the most popular.

Finally, we made it to an intersection that was within walking distance of my home

First Drink in Kenya:

            I returned home to an empty house today but was joined by Musombi twenty minutes past my arrival. He had gone to the store and picked up some things for dinner. We sat on the porch while we waited for Lillian to return from work on the other side of the city and engaged in conversation about dogs, politics, education and more. Soon, he brought out a glass flask of Napoleon Brandy. I poured myself a few shots and we raised our glasses in cheers to mark my first drink and six months of getting to know each other. The brandy warmed me up, for sure.

First Ugali Dinner:

            Ugali is fine corn flour (maize) that is cooked in boiled water to the consistency of a clay or play dough. Ugali is used as a utensil. First, it is rolled into a ball and then shaped like an eatable spoon to scoop the stewed meat and vegetables. I tried my hardest but it seems it takes practice to keep the Ugali spoon in tact. My plate was full of crumbled pieces that didn’t stay with the rolled masses. The taste is somewhat bland and it leaves a film in your mouth for hours after the meal. But it sure does fill you up. I was very grateful to eat my first dinner with Musombi and Lillian.

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Saturday October 23, 2010

            In the small world that I have found myself in, I have been recommended by two US friends to participate in the same Saturday program for children. One of my acquaintances from the U of M, Paul Walters, did an internship two summers ago and Patrick, my knowledgeable tour guide, now interns with the same program.

            The program finds sponsors for children who have been orphaned because of AIDS or whose mothers are too sick to care for them, due to AIDS. The sponsors, mostly from the US, provide money for the school, uniforms, some food and other necessities of life. On Saturdays, they run an all day program in which children read, check out books, use sports equipment to burn up energy, receive a larger than normal lunch and meet with one of six case workers to discuss problems, concerns or exciting details of their simple lives.

            I quickly accepted Patrick’s invitation to join him for the Saturday program. The group leader, Ketunzi, put Patrick on the spot and “encouraged” him to introduce his guest in Swahili. The 150+ children circled around the two of us and they giggled together at Patrick’s silly accent (impressive, if you ask me). I then said hello (in English, of course) and pointed to my Minnesota (pronounced “Min-a-soda”) shirt to have them say where I am from. They repeated it over and over with their silly accents, “Min-e-sO-Tah,” Minnesota, Minnesota!! The rest of the day, children walked up to me to read my shirt aloud and ran away in laughing fits with their friends.

I had an incredible time at the Saturday program. The staff and volunteers were so accepting of my participation and treated me just as one of their veterans. The children were so delightful, as well. They were happy to have another Mozungu to climb on and watch my skin turn colors as they poked, slapped, pinched and squeezed my arms. (Have you ever noticed how our skin color changes? I was intrigued myself as they called my skin green. I thought red more than anything but they saw green.)

I have always worked with children and find great value in them. They are honest and without reservation when it comes to matters of culture. I have learned many Swahili phrases from them and am beginning to understand their circumstances at home. Throughout my psychology education at the U of M we were reminded of one important thing; life circumstances are always behind a person’s actions, thoughts and beliefs in the world. Someone who works with or interacts with others must try to remember and learn before where a person comes from before they can understand the person. I was invited and really look forward to committing to the Saturday program throughout the duration of my stay.

            Patrick and I walked home because he wanted to show me what the roadside markets had to offer. There were shoe repairmen, custom furniture makers, watering holes, car washes and rim shops, and much more. He showed me Nakumat Junction which is an upscale mall with upscale goods and upscale prices. We walked through the supermarket and purchased fresh passion fruits. He cracked one open as soon as we exited and my taste buds jumped as high as the girl who was on the harnessed trampoline attraction outside. It was so fresh, so sugary and so tasty. If packages did not take three weeks to make it to the US then I would by the entire stock and send them to you. 10 passion fruits (the size of a lime) cost me $1.00. All of the fresh fruits and vegetables are so cheap and so fresh and so GOOD. In fact, most things here are extremely cheap.

Kenya is not the hot, dirty, uncivilized place people (I did, as well) may think it is. It is enjoyable during the day and sometimes hot with the direct sun. Too hot for my pale face yesterday – as the song says: WEAR SUNSCREEN! Mornings and evenings cool down to the 60s. It has rained the last two days, poured in fact which has made the mud run through the drainless streets and walking paths. I have been given the nickname “Nafula” which translates to “of the rain.” Lillian, my host mother, says I brought the rain with me from the US. Patrick says Africans believe each drop of water is a blessing from God so Nafula is a precious nickname. (I am not sure if you have noticed or not but Patrick has given me such valuable navigation, culture and survival tips for living in Nairobi – I do not know how I will ever thank him)

I live in the safest part of town and Patrick who is five minutes walk from my street is in the most privileged part of this side. We have been blessed to live comfortably with running water, working toilets, nice neighbors, security at our apartment’s gates and other luxuries some are not as fortunate to receive. I feel really good here, safe in fact. I receive smiles and salutations from many as I walk through the city – people are so nice and so accepting. I think the US could learn some manners from what I have seen so far from the city of Nairobi.

           

Blastoff...

After a long and busy summer I am finally ready to take my journey to Kenya. It has been such a long planning process. I started this journey in April and am finally going to be able to concentrate on my internship and cultural experiences rather than the stress of travel arrangements.Whew!

I took off from Minneapolis at 3:30 pm and arrived in Amsterdam at 6:30 am local (12:30 am).
Next, I depart Amsterdam at 10:30 local (4:30 am) and arrive in Nairobi at 7:30 pm local on Thursday (11:30 am).

Right now I am sitting in the Amsterdam Airport. I got through packing. I got through goodbyes (barely). I got through security. Now, I have one more 8 hour flight and then I am in Nairobi. I figured now was a good time to get my blog updated as I am not sure what my internet access will be like in the coming weeks. I am told it is extremely easy to find internet or buy cheap wireless modems so I don't expect to be disconnected for too long.

I am being welcomed in Nairobi by a UW-Madison graduate named Patrick. He works in Nairboi and is really good friends with Carolyn Edlebeck, my hometown friend working in Uganda right now. Patrick will be picking me up from the airport with Simon, the man who set up my homestay. Simon will be assisting me in arriving at my host family's home, as well as getting me to my internship the next day. I also have four other US friends waiting for my arrival and to show me around.

I am very fortunate to be encountering that "small world" people often refer to. So if you are reading this and worry about my safety or support - do not fret! I have plenty of familiar people ready to show me the ropes and lots of energy for getting to know my host family and coworkers.

That is all for now as I want to go stretch my legs before I board the 8 hour flight. Fingers crossed for safe travels and accompanying luggage :)

Here goes...