Dream of Africa

I haven't blogged for almost a year now which is not good as most of you were
keeping up with my adventures trough those posts. Good enough, the
adventures have been few and it is mostly day-to-day stuff which I find less
than blog-worthy. Though, as I am approaching the end of my contract with
AAH I am finding new reasons to reflect and write. Tears come to my eyes
when I think about having to leave here. I have my own life here and against
the nature of relationships, these will come to an abrupt end as most people
do not have access to email, Facebook or the funds for international calls.
It is sad to have to leave these people, especially the kids. I want to
watch all of them grow up and succeed at each step along their path but
again, I have to go. As they say, life will still go on and we as people
will keep the memories we have as company in times of longing and
loneliness. I have realized how important my friendship is to so many people
and I hate to think of them feeling deserted or lonely. I often wonder how
my friends will feel when I leave them and stay away for so long and
sometimes it makes me want to stay forever. But then I think about all of
you and the feelings of longing and loneliness that overcome me when I
imagine the sustained distance. No thank you, I want to come home and refill
on good times with you good people. I can't believe this is my third holiday
season away from home. I hope we can all take the time to realize the value
and importance of one another no matter how far or close we are to each
other. I love my family for all that we are and really look forward to the
Spring when we can all be together again hugging, laughing, bickering,
eating and drinking.

For now, here is a bit of an update on my life:

Since I came back in September, I have really gotten to know my new
roommate, the Outreach Coordinator Molly Daniels. She is an awesome 22 year
old recent college graduate from Ohio. She is an outdoorswoman at her core
and is great at pointing out the beauty in things that I have now begun to
overlook. It is nice to have a new set of eyes and thoughts on ground as I
linger on the border of burning out. We get along great and I actually
enjoy her company. She is a hard worker and very self-motivated which is
helping to drive many of our outreach programs.

My dog, Yaya turned 1 year in September and I like her more and more every
day. The puppy stage is finally coming to an end and I really enjoy her
companionship. She is great at fetching tennis balls, hiding bones and
licking my toes clean which keeps us entertained. Recently she has been
escaping from the compound in the evening and showing up at Jennipher's
place around midnight. She barks, enters and curls up under the couch to
sleep for the night at Grandma's place. Molly loves her which helps me know
that I can leave her here without causing too much of a hassle for Jennipher
or the next Coordinator. Sometimes I think about bringing her home with me,
but that thought quickly vanishes when I look at the requirements and fees
of a 6-9 month mandatory kennel confinement in the US - no thank you.

Jennipher is still taking very good care of me as a mother and the thought
of leaving her is what pains my heart the most. I wish I had more money to
provide her with a real appreciation for the kind of role she plays in
making my life complete here. She lives in a semi-permanent home and is
constantly trying to save money to build a permanent structure for her
family. Every time she gets close to what she needs though, something
happens. Just this year, she lost one of her dearest uncles and as you may
now, burials/funerals are not cheap. Just a week later her cow got sick and
died within the same day. She took out a loan for the cow and was hoping to
realize the investment for school fees but instead took a total loss. This
is just a personal story about Jennipher, but this is how life is here. The
circumstances are largely unfortunate for those who dream of a better life
for their family, even for those who try. Maybe someday when I have my own
money I can give back to her. For now, I will just buy her a Turkey for
Christmas with her Family. I think she will like that.

November 2-6 I traveled to Rwanda with Molly for a quick weekend trip.
Rwanda doesn't have border fees like the rest of East Africa ($50) so we
knew we could travel relatively cheaply. We hopped an overnight bus from
Kampala and landed in Kigali bright and early on the 3rd. As soon as we
found our hotel, showered and regained our energy we started touring. We
moved to the city center and observed the differences between Uganda and
Rwanda. Here are some things we took note of; Plastic bags are not allowed,
everyone who shops is given a paper bag. The appreciation of good food and
drinks is far greater in French colonized Rwanda than the other British
colonized Uganda and Kenya. Fresh bakeries and coffee shops tantalized our
noses at almost every corner of the city and when we finally landed on a
restaurant to eat, we were speechless (mostly because we could not stop
putting the delicious food into our mouths). We had a buffet of Indian and
African dishes that wowed our taste buds. After eating a mostly carbohydrate
and bland vegetable diet in Uganda, we really enjoyed that first meal with
complimentary desert pastries, coffee and a mint with our bill (oh how I
love customer service). Another very prominent difference was the language
barrier. Rwandan's speak Kirwanda and French which neither Molly or I
dabbled in. As we moved about trying to find our way from destination to
destination, we were shocked at the lack of English within the capital city
of Kigali. This was the first time since I have been traveling that I have
felt guilty about languages. We mostly expect everyone to know English and
for the most part, we can always get by with broken English phrases and lots
of gestures. Rwanda was a very different story. We also found the people to
be less friendly than Ugandans (which is not hard as Ugandans are noted as
some of the nicest and most accepting people) which may be as a result of
the language barrier. The infrastructure is unmatchable compared to the
whole of East Africa which as history tells us is in large part thanks to
the influx of international funds and attention after the 1994 genocide.
Because of this genocide and the sustained stability of the country, Rwanda
is a key tourist stop for East African and African travelers. We managed to
see most of the main spots that have been highlighted as memorials or
museums including the Hotel des Mille Collines, the hotel which inspired the
movie Hotel Rwanda, the main genocide museum and memorial within Kigali city
and two church memorials outside of Kigali, Ntarama and Nyamata. At each of
these churches, the Tutsis sought sanctuary and refuge from the Interhamwe
but found no sympathy within the house of God. Both churches are
memorialized as two of the most horrific massacres where thousands of women,
men and children were hacked, stabbed, shot, bombed, tortured and eventually
murdered. Both sites are hosts to mass graves that have been constructed as
part of the memorial and both sites showcase the skulls, bones and clothes
of the loved ones that were unreasonably thrown away. All of it was sad.
Really sad. And all of it was hard to imagine even though the genocide
happened only twenty years ago. After viewing the memorials, we began to
realize that every Rwandan walking along the street or working in offices
were survivors or of a new generation. I was sad to spend so little time in
the country as there is so much more to see and do. Nevertheless, it was a
trip I will never forget for many reasons including the bag of fresh baked
rolls, block of cheese and bottle of red (corkless) wine that Molly and I
carried on the bus as our dinner.

When I returned from the mini vacation, I had a big job waiting for me at
the school; Primary One interviews. They were very stressful and turned me
into a mean dictator but as much of a struggle as it was, it was successful.
People around the village talked about me as if I were the iron gate in
front of Arlington Junior School because I didn't put up with any BS.
Because I ran the same program last year, I know all of the tricks and was
able to catch almost all of the forgeries within the application pile.
Though my veteran status helped during the application process, I found it
to be a disadvantage as I saw many of my friends come through the line for
their children. In a country where corruption and nepotism is the rule of
the people, even the smallest programs in the smallest villages are stricken
by the same diseases. Amidst the pleading, persuading and praying we managed
to finish the program with very little disruption. I am proud of the 50
students we picked to be the new toothless Primary One class. I can't wait
to see them show up on the first day of school next year in their brand new
uniforms and wide eyes as they begin their journey towards a very bright
future.

From high level-stress at work to high-level stress at home. Thanksgiving
was supposed to be a celebration of the P1 process being over but ended up
being a really stressful evening for me as the hostess. We invited some of
our Mzungu (white) and African friends from Mbale who invited their
coworkers which added to the normal village posse we roll with, totaled 25
or 30 people. The group from Mbale who was in charge of doing the shopping
for things we can't get in the village showed up at 6pm even though we were
supposed to eat at 4:00pm. With our small kitchen and two stove burners, we
struggled to get dinner on the table by 8:00. By the time I sat down to
feast on Turkey, stuffing, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, gravy, crescent
rolls, green bean casserole and salad I realized I was drunk from an empty
stomach, all of the running around and wine chugging I was doing to keep me
going. I thoroughly enjoyed my meal with a smile on my face knowing that
dinner was a success despite the stress of getting it all put together. The
next afternoon after everyone left, I laid on the couch and let out a big
HELL YEA because everyone was gone - haha. But in reflection it was a
really, really great Thanksgiving. There was an American football that we
threw around for an hour or two in the afternoon, there was a projector and
speakers which made the house lively and entertaining, there was an activity
which made everyone talk about what they are thankful for and there was
plenty of wine. Most importantly though, I am grateful that almost all of
the people I care about in Uganda were there and participated in the
American tradition. It is great to be able to share such an important part
of our culture with others.

We ended our school year on November 29th, marked by a celebration thrown by
our PTA and administration. This event is always my favorite and I think it
is so important to let loose and relax with coworkers every now and then.
Unfortunately, on that very day I came down with a very bad fever and 24ish
hour stomach bug. I was told they had fun but missed me which made my
missing the party a little easier to bare.

With the school year over, we are now receiving our Secondary Scholarship
students back in the village and around the school. Because of the long
holiday, there is no programming until January which is a relief as we ALL
need a break from school, alarm clocks and stress. For now, we are all
visiting and catching up with each other which is heavenly. I missed the
Secondary students in August because I was in the US so it is nice to catch
up with my good friends after such a long time. Most of them are really
special and have a lot going on for them. Our top class of Arlington
Students just finished their advanced level of high school and are now
applying to Universities which is an exciting new adventure for the
organization. Unfortunately, we are not sure of the capacity of our budget
to support them throughout their degree programs so we are on the search for
partners and alternatives.

Though holiday time is here, the village is not quiet at all. Since it is an
even year, this is the time of circumcision. As part of the Bagisu tribe,
the people of this area practice circumcision as a celebrated culture of a
teenage (15-22) boy entering his manhood. The roads are full of multiple
decorated, chanting, drumming groups running with the boys who are preparing
for their circumcision. Traditionally, the boy runs for three days to
prepare for the cutting ceremony. While they run with their best friends,
brothers and other supportive people in their life, they visit the homes of
their uncles to receive gifts such as goats, cows or a piece of land. On the
third day, they will run to their mother's home, find the father and then
run with the father to the cultural surgeon. The boy, exhausted and
energized from all of the preparations stands with a stick across the neck,
arms up and straight faced as the surgeon cuts all of the foreskin from the
tip to nearly half way up the penis shaft. After this first cut, the surgeon
makes a second cut circling the shaft, then removes the large patch of
foreskin and the procedure is finished. All of this is done without
medication (besides booze) and it must be done without any grimace or sign
of pain from the boy or else he will be teased, shunned and demoralized
throughout his life by the entire village. I have been watching the runners
for two weeks now and tonight, I will finally see the actual cutting
ceremony in person. I am both excited and terrified but it's one of those
things I just have to see, even if it is just to say that I saw it. But just
as this practice is rich in culture, the tradition is also rich in bad
behavior. The association with drunkenness, fornication and looting has
decreased the value of circumcision as a tradition within the larger
society. Modern medicine has also helped to reduce on the importance of the
ceremony as many families are choosing to take their young(er) boys to
hospitals or clinics. There are some families that celebrate the tradition
tastefully and manage to preserve their culture without much negative
associations which is a breath of fresh air amongst the raw and unruly
groups who participate without restrictions.

UPDATE: I recently ran into the boy turned man whose circumcision I attended and he was having a very hard time walking around. He gave me a big thumbs up though, so I think he is doing okay.

So as I sit in my house and think about all of the things that I have done
since I came back to Uganda, I need to think about all of the things I have
to do before I leave Uganda. The next two weeks I am going to spend most of
my time applying for jobs. I have been looking at the postings for about two
months now and consistently find things I am interested in and qualified
for. I find this to be encouraging and proof that my time here in Uganda has
helped me grow personally and professionally. I think they say on average it
takes about 6 month to a year to find a job so I am a bit behind in terms of
time but I am hoping that I can find something to look forward to after I
depart this great place. I have narrowed down my city search to Washington
DC, Denver CO, Portland OR and Chicago IL but am open to the possibility of
other places. I have been searching out organizations that work with
refugees and am also looking into getting into University study abroad
offices or other service learning organizations. We will see what pans out and who knows, maybe I will end up serving drinks at the Harbor for another summer. Lord (and the bank) knows I could use the summer to earn/save some cash.

I also plan to use this December to relax, read books and enjoy the coming
dry season weather. We are expecting 35 visitors between Jan-March to help
celebrate the high school graduation as well as our 10 year anniversary.
Many of the Board Members are coming in March and we have a group of 10
coming from January to March. Needless to say, my last three months will not
be relaxing or free. I am hoping they can get my replacement here by January
or February so that I have at least a month to train the
person, have their help and then would be able to enjoy myself a little
better in March when all of the Board Members are around.

My sister Charlene comes in. 14 days!!! It is going to be so awesome/weird for my two worlds to finally combine. I have been experiencing and learning so much over here and
finally I will have someone who can see, witness and enjoy all of the things
I try to tell you stories about. We are going to have an exciting trip
across East Africa to places I have never been as well as my old and current
stomping grounds in Kenya and Uganda. I CANNOT WAIT!!!

Otherwise, I hope you are all happy, healthy and looking forward to the
Christmas season. I miss you more with each passing day but know that the
countdown is on to my return home!

So much Love from Uganda.

Yours,

Caitlan

THINK ABOUT GIVING BACK THIS CHRISTMAS SEASON:
As you wind up your Christmas shopping, take a second to think about communities that need your support. Send a text message and donate $10 to Arlington Academy of Hope through your phone bill.

Send the message "Give 11272" to the phone number 80088.