Youtube Party!!

Click Here - A greeting to my fellow Bloody Mary Lovers

Click Here - My African Pet

Click Here - Velvet Monekys at a Campsite

Click Here - More Monkeys
 
CLICK HERE - Sheila's house overlooking Naivasha at sunset

Click Here - A Kenyan Wedding

Thanksgiving:

            I hope you all enjoyed your turkey day and the time you were able to spend with your family and friends. I know I felt so blessed this holiday to have all of the love and support from all you bloggies and my family, especially, for this trip. If it wasn’t for the external encouragement and belief in my ambitions I don’t know how I could have managed this journey.

            I was blessed to be able to officially celebrate the Thanksgiving holiday all the way in Africa. Laurel and Eric, my US friends, spent all day cooking the traditional American spread and let me tell you, they rocked it! They made a really moist turkey, baked apple pies with hand/homemade whipped cream, mashed potatoes with garlic and butter, managed a green bean casserole with homemade fried onions, and much more. It was so divine to be spoiled with the same foods we celebrate the holiday with in the US. American football was the only thing we longed for that night.

            Around the dinner table were two Spaniards, a South American, a French girl, four Kenyans and three Americans which made it truly a unique international celebration. Just as many families carry out the tradition of giving thanks as a form of prayer, we all went around the table and gave attention to what we were particularly thankful for that day. It was a treat to be able to remind ourselves of the glorious holiday traditions that we are accustomed to and overlook sometimes (such as the history behind the feast and the loosening of the belt after your second helping).

Nakuru and Naivasha:

            Nakuru and Naivasha are small sister towns within the unbelievably scenic rift valley, just two hours outside of Nairobi. My pictures do not even touch on the wondrous beauty of the rolling hills, mountains and lakes that house African wildlife and modern towns. Both Nakuru and Naivasha are built around beautiful lakes that bring life and tranquility to their horizons and act as a canvas to tropically colored sunsets. The oranges, yellows, pinks and purples that reflect from the water and surround the mountainous backdrop made me giggle uncontrollably as my eyes were stunned by the beauty.

 

The images of this sunset may have been enhanced in my head, though because unfortunately, in Nairobi, it is hard to see sunsets due to the tall buildings and fenced in estates. Also, the Africa I know is not nearly as aesthetically pleasing. Nairobi is a trash infested concrete jungle with millions of people in foot and vehicle traffic constantly. Not a day goes by that my boogers are not black from all of the exhaust, dust and other pollutants in the air. You can imagine the thrill of the county side after a month’s time in this city. (Oddly enough, it felt great to return back “home,” sleep in “my own” bed and eat “home cooked” meals)

Nakuru is my dream home in Kenya. People ride on the back of bicycles instead of matatus, relax in the grass fields to take a break from their less than hectic days, have houses on small farm plots instead of small flats in large apartment complexes, greet people in the street because they know them, have a dazzling nightlife that lets you escape the small-town feeling yet maintain the small-town safety and most things are cheaper. I really felt at home.

Stella is from Nakuru so I was given the best tour of the town and shown a really great time. I was able to visit her family farm (I took a picture with one of their goats and was then told he is Christmas dinner-sad), enjoy the perks of their private sports club (I even got to attend their annual member’s night in which free food and drinks are provided the entire night – how lucky we were to be in town that weekend), eat at the best places in town that a traveler would never find (grilled goat meat by the side of the road is a must!!), dance the night away with some of Stella’s closest friends (some people think I was born in Kenya because I have such great moves-seriously!!!), and got a local tour of one of Nakuru’s main tourist attractions; a huge crater called Menengai.

After Nakuru, we traveled 30 minutes to Naivasha which is an extremely smaller town with tons of money filtering in from the large hotel resorts, flower farms and animal reserves. Unfortunately, there is a very large gap between the wealthy European (mostly) business owners and the poor locals. Most of the money that goes into the town’s businesses directly funnels into someone’s wallet. The infrastructure of the town is falling apart while the tourism spots are beautiful beyond imagination-it’s really quite a sad disparity.

Just as Stella was my personal tour guide of Nakuru, one of her best friends, Shelia, lives in Naivasha and filled an extremely similar role. She lives on the top of a high hill looking over the rows upon rows of greenhouses that cover the land surrounding Lake Naivasha. There is a huge industry of exporting flowers and Sheila is married to an owner of one of the more prominent farms. They mainly export their roses to Holland but also do their own grafting to sell their special breeds. We were given a tour of some of the greenhouses that house more rows of plants than your eyes can process. Cutting is done three times a day, every day and then put into a huge cooler to let them settle. Next, they are cut to length, packaged into boxes, loaded onto cooled trailers and flown off to wherever the order came from.

Lake Naivasha is extremely polluted and has been the main concern for environmentalists as the large flamingo and fish population that normally thrive have become ill which lead to their death. Most of the pollution is speculated to come from the large amounts of chemical drainage from the numerous flower farms. Is there ever a happy medium between human industry and environmental security?

Half of the land surrounding the lake is owned by big hotels the other half is owned by an elite few European business men; some flower farmers and others reservists. Sheila took us for a drive and after we traveled past the stretch of resorts, we began to pass animal reserves and uninterrupted plots of land. I was handed a pair of binoculars and laid my eyes on one of the ugliest animals I have ever seen: the warthog aka Pumba. Then I saw antelopes, zebras and something else that slightly resembles a cow with a huge hump on its throat. I was thrilled to see all of the wildlife right next to the road and especially without having to pay money to enter an animal reserve. This is the Africa we see on the National Geographic Channel; the Africa I had been longing to see.

I was told look into the trees for the giraffes but they are so well camouflaged so it was quite impossible to catch a glimpse of their beauty as we traversed the pothole path referred to in Africa as a road. Every journey requires swerving back and forth in order to keep your car from bottoming out or popping tires meanwhile you must avoid the other cars attempting the same challenge. Yielding for others seems to be an unknown concept here. We headed back toward the hotel side of the lake, disappointed from our unsuccessful giraffe sighting. Then, Stella thought she had spotted one of the mysterious creatures on top of the hill. I guess the search really had me on edge because I have never been so excited! I was freaking out and the three Kenyan women I was with giggled at my (over)reaction.

Stella’s eyes had not deceived her and my anticipation was not in vain. When we came to the top of the hill, there stood three tall, gorgeous giraffes. One was ahead of the other two moving parallel to the fence that separated them from the heavily trafficked road. Sheila pulled over and let the tourist (me) have her fun. I jumped out of the tall Land Rover as quickly as I could and rushed to the fence in order to capture pictures of my first giraffe sighting in Kenya. I concentrated on the two that were stationary as the third moved further away from me, right next to the fence. I began to run in hopes of getting a close-up shot of the wondering giraffe when all of a sudden, he found an open gate and began to cross the road. At that point I lost it with excitement and shouted back towards my friends to confirm their attention. They seemed to be unmoved but I know my presence reminded them of the phenomenal spectacles of nature that frequently occur in their country and that are often taken for granted.

As I looked back to my safari mates, a matatu drove up the hill behind them and sped forward without caution. I waved my hands to warn the driver but he continued to charge towards the giraffe crossing the road as if he was trying to hit it. The giraffe is so large and mighty that I am sure the matatu would have been sent flying backwards at the same speed (or a little less-I haven’t taken physics in a while…). Fortunately, for the giraffe, this did not happen. The matatu’s horn hooting scared the animal and I swear in an instant it looked at the oncoming vehicle and in the voice of Scooby-Doo said “ruh-roh” then sprinted across the road and up the hill on the other side. It was quite the experience of which I could not stop talking about the rest of the night. I called my sister right away to let her know I saw some of her people (Charlene has the longest neck I have ever seen and I often refer to her as a giraffe!!!)

Stella eventually admitted that she enjoyed the sight as much as I did but had to contain herself in order to not look like a silly tourist. I captured unique pictures of the event which really help to tell the story and promise to get them up soon.

Living by Coincidence

When planning my stay in Kenya, I was trying to find accommodations in which I would be living with other expatriates from around the world. I thought it would be great to explore Kenya with other people who are new to the country. FORTUNATELY, due to a lack of funding for my stay in Kenya, I had to find alternate accommodations.

I didn’t know it then, but living with a Kenyan family instead of other internationals put me in a special position. Instead of roommates, I have a family. They teach me the language, share secrets of the land, open my eyes with unique cultural insights and genuinely care for my wellbeing. My host mother and I have a really great relationship started. As she told one of her friends, “it was love at first sight.” I really enjoy her company and I am sure I help to make the home feel less empty while her girls are away at boarding school. Lillian has a great personality and I really appreciate her reflective attitude about life as we think in parallel most of the time.

If all of my plans went according to my original design, I would have never lived with a local Kenyan family and would have missed out on so much cultural integration. Most people I meet are convinced that I have lived here before and are so surprised by my comfort and natural existence in Kenya. I enjoy the reactions after I reveal my short 1 month residency.

I have a coworker who has become part of my “Kenyan family.” Her name is Stella Wangechi and is a lawyer with the National Commission who works in my department. More than anything, though, Stella is my partner-in-crime. We dance, drink, laugh, cry and pick on each other like we have been friends for a lifetime. Stella has been my modern guide to Kenya, filling me in on the hottest spots to dance, the best places to shop, and how to NOT act like a stingy, stuck-up American.

The other night, I expressed my appreciation for her companionship and then asked her what she did for fun before I came to Kenya. She reminded me of her pregnant best friend and (recent) ex-boyfriend who used to occupy most of her free-time. She said it was a life coincidence that all of these events happened when I came here which allowed for us to become so close so quickly.

Stella chalked it up to coincidence but I like to refer to destiny or fate. Whatever happens, however it happens, let it happen because it may just lead you to a better place than you could have planned for or imagined. I’m a natural optimist and think life is more fun when you find everything new and exciting instead of disappointing and unfair. Look on the brighter side because the sun will come out tomorrow. :D

Mombasa

You know those days you wake up and have no idea what the world has in store and then it ends up being one of the most unexpected and enjoyable days? Well, Sunday was definitely one of those days!!

I was in Mombasa on the coast this weekend for work. They paid for everything: flight (40 mins), hotel, meals (aka-drinks) and transportation. My colleagues on the trip had seen the beach so many times and were less than thrilled at the idea of walking along the water... it was a bummer for sure. Then, one of the KNCHR Commissioners told me to change my flight to the evening so I could stay and go to the beach. I was ecstatic to hear this proposition and she helped me change my flight when we got to the airport at 11am. She also arranged for the cab driver to take me to the beach and pick me up. The cab driver's name is Jimmy. Jimmy works for Universal Cabs. Universal Cabs is a corporate client of the KNCHR so we always use them for travel arrangements. The commissioner told me I could trust him and I felt very comfortable with his suggestions for my day on the beach. He didn't have any other jobs that day so he decided to show me around and give me a local tour of Mombasa. He was really quite eager to give me great hospitality. Maybe its because I am a white woman, maybe its because I am fun, or maybe its because he is just genuinely proud of the coast and wanted to make sure I was given a proper introduction. I took advantage of his offers as I was just going with the flow of that day. We first went to the Nakumatt (grocery store) so we could get supplies for the beach. The norms: bananas, salt and vinegar chips, fresh squeezed juice and vodka!! We then proceeded towards the beach and I could see the coastline through the trees as we passed by all of the fancy beach resorts.The city was one of the first trading ports with the Arab countries so it is rich in Muslim religion and Arab culture. Its an old town with lots of history and that is evident in the mix of architecture and people.  When we parked the car, I was so excited to see the Indian Ocean and my breath was taken away as soon as we reached the white sand beach. The coast is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!

I paid 20 shillings (a quarter) to change in a makeshift stall. In the same area there are many people offering to rent chairs, black inter tubes for floating, sodas, chips, souvenirs, swimsuits and anything else you may need while you relax on the beach. I stuck out like a white girl in a bikini in the middle of Africa, for sure! No one was wearing bathing suits except the people in the water. And, even some of them had their clothes on. I was half naked, greased with sunscreen and blinding everyone with my pale, Irish skin. I have gotten so used to the stares and wondering eyes that I am able to just walk in my own bubble and enjoy myself. So, I just walked down to the water with my perm-grin and stood as the low tide rushed over my feet. The water was as warm as a bathtub and I could see the sandbar went on for more than 100 yards. I began to walk out, loving every step in the soft sand and taking in the endless blue horizon. It is these moments in life that I know there is a divine creator of such beauty. I looked to the sun, put my arms above my head and dove into the Indian Ocean for the first time. As my head emerged, I felt like a beautiful mermaid (what girl doesn't feel like that when she's swimming?). This moment of make believe came to a halt as I opened my eyes-the salt burned so badly!! I had not been swimming in an ocean for so long and mindlessly allowed the salty water to seep into my eyes. While I was rubbing my eyes, the sunscreen from my hands also added to my discomfort and to top it all off I kept my mouth open as I splashed water from the sea to help ease my drama. It was saltier than the dirtiest martini... I think (correct me if I am wrong) when salt is dissolved in water, as it is in ocean water, that dissolved salt adds to the mass of the water and makes the water denser than it would be without salt. Because objects float better on a dense surface, they float better on salt water than fresh water. The denser the salt water, the easier it is for objects to float on top of it. I DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TO TRY!!!! I just laid back and let the gentle waves push me ever so slightly. There was no fluttering of the feet or swiveling of the arms. It was awesome, seriously awesome!!

After a good 20 minute swim I retreated to the beach chairs we had rented. On my way back, a group of men stopped me and asked me where I was from. When they found out I was from the US, they immediately wanted to take a photo with me because I am from the land that OBAMA rules. Boy oh boy, I cannot tell you how big of a deal President Obama is for the Kenyan people. He comes from the Luo tribe and people from this country, especially Luos, treat him like their own president. It really is silly the ways in which people iconize him; t-shirts, gum, posters, etc. His grandmother's estate has become a tourist attraction, as well. Nevertheless, the men didn't have a camera so I escaped the paparazzi. I went to my beach chair, dug my toes in the sand, poured a drink and listened to the sound of the ocean. The people watching got better over time as more and more locals came to relax away their Sunday. There were camels on the beach waiting to give rides, a huge truck filled with a sound system that entertained the whole beach as a form of advertisement (this is quite popular), rows upon rows of local food stands and more. Mostly, people were just relaxing and enjoying the gorgeous scenery. Jimmy was glad to be reminded of the amazingness of Mombasa. When you are in a place for so long, your surroundings become normal. Look around, wherever you are is incredible!!!

Time passed slowly that day but it was inevitable that I had to leave the beach and head back to the airport. On our way, I was shown more sights of Mombasa as the mini-tour was narrated by my host. There is so much more to see and I cannot wait to go back again. Most people go there for holiday, Dec 20th-Jan10th but with peak season come peak prices. So, I will opt out of traveling then and go when I can afford the luxurious hotels and bumping nightlife. Until then, Mombasa - I will miss you.

Politics in Kenya

So, I have been meaning to write a comprehensive blog on the political undertakings within Kenya but I figured this is the best way to let you all know the current events.

In August, Kenya promulgated a brand new constitution - YAYYYYY!!!!!! This is something to be celebrated everywhere - a country with a history of crooked politicians and corrupt officials succeeded in the first step towards justice and equality nationwide.

With the help of new truth commissions and official investigations from the International Criminal Courts (ICC), many of Kenya's corrupt leaders are being taken out. One by one, government officials and honorable MPs (member of parliament) are being publicly accused and institutionally suspended for reasons such as monetary corruption and even involvement with the 2007 post-election violence that killed more than 1,200 Kenyans, thousands more injured, over 300,000 people displaced and around 42,000 houses and many businesses were looted or destroyed. A significant number of cases of sexual violence were also reported.
CLICK HERE - to read a report on the post election violence in 2007

William Ruto is the Higher Education minister and has been suspended due to multiple fraudulent charges currently on the move through the high courts.
CLICK HERE - to read the announcement of Ruto's suspension
CLICK HERE - to watch a video of the announcement of Ruto's suspension

Not only is Ruto fighting these charges, he is also an alleged perpetrator in the post election violence. The Kenya National Commission on Human Rights research and produced "On the brink of the precipice: A human rights account of Kenya's post-2007 election violence" in which Ruto is held accountable for planning, inciting and financing the violence. During the research, over 1,000 statements were taken from witnesses to ensure proper documentation of the knowledge behind the planned acts.

Ruto, in his inevitable plunder, pointed fingers at the KNCHR claiming that the Commission coached and paid witnesses in order to single out certain politicians. He specifically alleged one of our Commissioners, Hassan Omar Hassan (whom I work directly with - hes a GREAT guy and a SPECTACULAR lawyer) claiming that Hassan paid these witnesses from his own pocket and has produced this report for his own political clout. The witnesses Ruto speaks of are in a witness protection program therefore he has now raised issues of security for key witnesses the KNCHR has helped find safety. Unlike the US, there is no concrete program or process to relocate witnesses whose safety is of the utmost importance. Therefore, taking care of these people was under the KNCHR's mandate as a way to protect their human rights and make sure they were properly taken care to ensure their truthful testimonies are heard. These witnesses are key to putting the corrupt politicians behind bars.
CLICK HERE - to watch a video of Ruto's allegations of KNCHR paying witnesses


Ruto went to the media, after he returned from an unsuccessful journey to clear his name with the ICC, and made these allegations. The KNCHR calmly fought this battle with water and professionally responded to Ruto's desperate attempts to blame someone besides himself.
CLICK HERE - to watch a video of the public statements shared between Ruto and the KNCHR
CLICK HERE - to watch a video of the KNCHRs response to Ruto

The media in Kenya has really taken this story to another level. Since the allegations, some of the witnesses who gave their statements have come forward to the newspapers and TV stations to claim the legitimacy of Ruto's statements regarding the coaching and bribing of said witnesses.
READ THIS!!! - the latest story regarding all of this drama

UPDATE:
CLICK HERE - to read the latest story and statement from KNCHR regarding bribery claims
CLICK HERE - to watch the latest video with reaction statement from KNCHR regarding witness perjory

**During all of this I was able to sit in on the press conference, view a commission properly handle a political move against them, watch the media take information and spin the messages as well as view all of this with an international eye. I am really going through great experiences over here.**

Settling In...

Sunday October 31^st, 2010

            If you know my story or have read my blog from start to finish then you understand the origin of this trip. I will summarize the story again just to remind you again or inform you for the first time. Though, I do suggest reading from the beginning!

            While at the University of Minnesota, I earned a leadership minor. In my senior year I took the capstone class for the minor and completed a final project which encompassed all of the relevant training and education we received. Each group proposed a systematic project to alleviate a sociopolitical issue within a specific country. The project my group developed for Kenya was widely accepted and admired as a benchmark example of success within the requirements.

            One of my group mates, Eric, was dating Laurel, who was at the time studying in Kenya with my roommate Amanda (try to follow). Eric and I both worked with a special interest in the issues and also were given insights from our friends who were living the life we were studying. With the energy of our academic success and the background stories of our friends, Eric and I both had extra motivation to travel to Kenya.  The energy we possessed to make this research a reality resonated within our group and it was a common topic of conversation then.

            Eric was part of my welcoming crew to Kenya. He moved here, with Laurel, one month before I made the journey myself. As we embraced we both commented on the success of carrying out our ambitions and living within our dreams. Friday night, Eric and Laurel helped introduce me to the Nairobi nightlife (more on that crazy good time later) and as a group of foreigners sitting in the corner of a local tavern, naturally we engaged in conversations about the roots of our presence in Kenya. Eric and I immediately reminisced about the work we did back in Minnesota and were energized in the thought of our simultaneous presence in Kenya. The others listened to our stories and were taken back by our own story. It is truly an amazing feat that both of us began this journey together then went our separate ways and continued to strive for and accomplish the same goal.

            I think the leadership minor faculty would be very proud to hear this story. I believe in the training that I was given as it has been my guide, support and transport to where I am and the person I strive to be. It’s refreshing to know the student loan debt I have waiting for me in the U.S. is worth it J It’s all part of the larger picture and this time will be great to reflect upon as I continue to adventure towards a career.

Monday November 1, 2010

            IT’S NOVEMBER ALREADY!! WHAT? No internet – boring day. I share an office with a man named Samson who I am supposed to be getting most of my work from. My office was visited so many times today with coworkers looking for Samson but he was always out. From his absence and scurrying about today, I can tell he is a busy and important man within the KNCHR. We are meeting on Thursday to discuss work he can delegate to me. I hope he has the ability to delegate – I know how hard that can be.

            Carol Abong returned to the office today, as well. It was so great to see her as she is the reason I am in Kenya. We embraced with warmth as if we are life long cronies. I can tell she has told many of her colleagues about me and is encouraging them to take me on trips and special assignments so I can get a really good view of all of the work that the KNCHR does. I hope to some day, properly thank her for granting me this opportunity.

            As I meet new people within the Commission and others we work with, most are surprised to hear that I am not trained in Law. I would say at least 70% of the commission staff/interns have law degrees which made me feel inadequate at first. The kind of work and the manner in which lawyers process information is so intense and really focused on the nitty-gritty details of words, laws, bills, etc within the work that we do. Maybe I just need to become more acclimated to the context of our industry in order to understand all of the conversations throughout the day but I am honest with myself in knowing where my work ability and work ethic collide. I would love to say I have the same brain capacity as any other person but I know this is not true when it comes to academics.

            With flaws come challenges and with challenges come goals. I am promising myself to work on and become a natural at paying attention to detail within the entirety of my tasks as well as the Commissions mandates. I have been taught to ask questions about information I come across and assess other views. Dedication is all it takes to make sure I follow through and pay attention to working hard. School made working hard so much easier. I was always working for a grade – Now I have to be self determined and motivated in order to live up to my higher expectations. After all, I didn’t put all of my life savings into this trip to come over here and be lazy. I came here to better my understanding of the world, find a graduate education path and gain the experience and knowledge necessary to get to the next step in my career path.

            The more I learn and observe, the more I understand that Law School is the key to opening doors within politics as well as civil society services. The law is the ruling body of this world and without an understanding of its functions; I will be ruled out of future positions. Law school, eh? Can I really do it?

Tuesday November 2, 2010

            Out of 32 people in a hotel conference room downtown Nairobi, I am the only white person - my how the tables have turned. I was not uncomfortable being the minority, though. Instead I was embarrassed due to my choice of attire for that day. I was completely underdressed for the company at this legal forum. While I was wearing a white shirt and casual green pants, I met the chair person of the KNCHR and many other valuable contacts and officials within the Kenyan government systems.

            I don’t have the nicest clothes and definitely underestimated the degree of formal interactions I would have within my internship. I brought two business outfits that depended on my black pants. To my surprise, my black pants no longer fit therefore I had zero business outfits for the first week of work. Last Saturday, I went to market that was recommended for a “fashionable girl on a budget” and which happens to be right down the road from where I stay. Toy Market is a mass of stands selling second hand clothing and other random goods all for a bartered price. The bartering game is fun, beneficial to those who know how to play it and also exhausting! I found a few key pieces to get me through the next few weeks. I can’t pull the poor American intern card among members of parliament, ambassadors of European countries and high religious leaders.

Those are a few titles of the company I have been among in the first two weeks of my internship. I work within a very progressive and prominent force among the government and civil society. Since the enactment of Kenya’s brand new constitution in August, corruption matters and justice issues have been the focus of the KNCHR. Politicians and government officials are being investigated for corruption offences which may turn out to be a part of the pathetic political number games that raise some up and cut others right below the knees but may also be the rule of law necessary to set a crooked ruling history straight. We strive hard to understand and promote the human rights matters that affect the political processes and civil matters that have a heightened importance and urgency since the new constitution. The voices of the KNCHR are not only heard, our commissioner’s opinions and ideals are highly respected and looked to for guidance concerning such difficult justice and human rights matters.