Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Mombasa

You know those days you wake up and have no idea what the world has in store and then it ends up being one of the most unexpected and enjoyable days? Well, Sunday was definitely one of those days!!

I was in Mombasa on the coast this weekend for work. They paid for everything: flight (40 mins), hotel, meals (aka-drinks) and transportation. My colleagues on the trip had seen the beach so many times and were less than thrilled at the idea of walking along the water... it was a bummer for sure. Then, one of the KNCHR Commissioners told me to change my flight to the evening so I could stay and go to the beach. I was ecstatic to hear this proposition and she helped me change my flight when we got to the airport at 11am. She also arranged for the cab driver to take me to the beach and pick me up. The cab driver's name is Jimmy. Jimmy works for Universal Cabs. Universal Cabs is a corporate client of the KNCHR so we always use them for travel arrangements. The commissioner told me I could trust him and I felt very comfortable with his suggestions for my day on the beach. He didn't have any other jobs that day so he decided to show me around and give me a local tour of Mombasa. He was really quite eager to give me great hospitality. Maybe its because I am a white woman, maybe its because I am fun, or maybe its because he is just genuinely proud of the coast and wanted to make sure I was given a proper introduction. I took advantage of his offers as I was just going with the flow of that day. We first went to the Nakumatt (grocery store) so we could get supplies for the beach. The norms: bananas, salt and vinegar chips, fresh squeezed juice and vodka!! We then proceeded towards the beach and I could see the coastline through the trees as we passed by all of the fancy beach resorts.The city was one of the first trading ports with the Arab countries so it is rich in Muslim religion and Arab culture. Its an old town with lots of history and that is evident in the mix of architecture and people.  When we parked the car, I was so excited to see the Indian Ocean and my breath was taken away as soon as we reached the white sand beach. The coast is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!


I paid 20 shillings (a quarter) to change in a makeshift stall. In the same area there are many people offering to rent chairs, black inter tubes for floating, sodas, chips, souvenirs, swimsuits and anything else you may need while you relax on the beach. I stuck out like a white girl in a bikini in the middle of Africa, for sure! No one was wearing bathing suits except the people in the water. And, even some of them had their clothes on. I was half naked, greased with sunscreen and blinding everyone with my pale, Irish skin. I have gotten so used to the stares and wondering eyes that I am able to just walk in my own bubble and enjoy myself. So, I just walked down to the water with my perm-grin and stood as the low tide rushed over my feet. The water was as warm as a bathtub and I could see the sandbar went on for more than 100 yards. I began to walk out, loving every step in the soft sand and taking in the endless blue horizon. It is these moments in life that I know there is a divine creator of such beauty. I looked to the sun, put my arms above my head and dove into the Indian Ocean for the first time. As my head emerged, I felt like a beautiful mermaid (what girl doesn't feel like that when she's swimming?). This moment of make believe came to a halt as I opened my eyes-the salt burned so badly!! I had not been swimming in an ocean for so long and mindlessly allowed the salty water to seep into my eyes. While I was rubbing my eyes, the sunscreen from my hands also added to my discomfort and to top it all off I kept my mouth open as I splashed water from the sea to help ease my drama. It was saltier than the dirtiest martini... I think (correct me if I am wrong) when salt is dissolved in water, as it is in ocean water, that dissolved salt adds to the mass of the water and makes the water denser than it would be without salt. Because objects float better on a dense surface, they float better on salt water than fresh water. The denser the salt water, the easier it is for objects to float on top of it. I DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TO TRY!!!! I just laid back and let the gentle waves push me ever so slightly. There was no fluttering of the feet or swiveling of the arms. It was awesome, seriously awesome!!

After a good 20 minute swim I retreated to the beach chairs we had rented. On my way back, a group of men stopped me and asked me where I was from. When they found out I was from the US, they immediately wanted to take a photo with me because I am from the land that OBAMA rules. Boy oh boy, I cannot tell you how big of a deal President Obama is for the Kenyan people. He comes from the Luo tribe and people from this country, especially Luos, treat him like their own president. It really is silly the ways in which people iconize him; t-shirts, gum, posters, etc. His grandmother's estate has become a tourist attraction, as well. Nevertheless, the men didn't have a camera so I escaped the paparazzi. I went to my beach chair, dug my toes in the sand, poured a drink and listened to the sound of the ocean. The people watching got better over time as more and more locals came to relax away their Sunday. There were camels on the beach waiting to give rides, a huge truck filled with a sound system that entertained the whole beach as a form of advertisement (this is quite popular), rows upon rows of local food stands and more. Mostly, people were just relaxing and enjoying the gorgeous scenery. Jimmy was glad to be reminded of the amazingness of Mombasa. When you are in a place for so long, your surroundings become normal. Look around, wherever you are is incredible!!!

Time passed slowly that day but it was inevitable that I had to leave the beach and head back to the airport. On our way, I was shown more sights of Mombasa as the mini-tour was narrated by my host. There is so much more to see and I cannot wait to go back again. Most people go there for holiday, Dec 20th-Jan10th but with peak season come peak prices. So, I will opt out of traveling then and go when I can afford the luxurious hotels and bumping nightlife. Until then, Mombasa - I will miss you.

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